Journey Jar

The first decision most visitors get wrong about Melbourne is not what to do – it is where to sleep. Pick the wrong area and you spend your entire trip on trams trying to get somewhere. Pick the right one and the city opens up immediately – everything is walkable or a short ride away, […]

I had been looking at photographs of the Colosseum since I was a child. In school textbooks, on television, in the film Gladiator — that image of the great oval amphitheatre was so familiar it had almost become abstract. Just a symbol. A logo for Ancient Rome. Then I stood inside it. The goosebumps were […]

Everything has a limit. You can put a boundary around most things in life. But the beauty of Nepal’s remotest corners? That has no limit at all. I had been telling myself for years that I wasn’t ready. Not fit enough. Not brave enough. Not free enough. And then, one day, photos of the Annapurna […]

Most people picture Venice in summer. Sunshine on the Grand Canal. Gondolas packed three deep. Gelato in every other hand. I visited in the second week of November. The fog had settled over the lagoon the way it apparently does every year around that time — thick, low, and completely indifferent to any plans you […]

I had spent two days in Venice walking through fog, photographing Gothic palazzi emerging ghostlike from the mist, and getting genuinely lost in alleys that seemed to lead only to other alleys. Venice in November is extraordinary but it is also relentlessly grey. Then I took a 45-minute vaporetto ride northeast across the lagoon, and […]

Nobody told me to go to the State Library Victoria. It wasn’t in my original Melbourne plan. I walked past it on my way somewhere else, saw the chess set on the forecourt, went in to have a quick look, and stayed for two hours. That seems to be how most people discover it. You […]

I had three to four days in Melbourne, based in the CBD, and no rental car. That combination sends most travel guides into a mild panic – suddenly the Great Ocean Road “isn’t really possible”, Phillip Island is “best by car”, and you’re left staring at a list of laneway coffee shops wondering if that’s […]

The train arrived at Sreemangal just before midnight. The platform was surprisingly alive for that hour. Travellers in winter jackets pulling bags off the train, vendors hovering at the edges with tea and snacks, the blue-green Sreemangal station sign glowing overhead. We had boarded in Dhaka after dinner, half-asleep before the train left the city, […]

Krabi had been on my list for a long time. I had already fallen in love with Thailand’s islands. Koh Kood left me speechless, and Koh Lanta had stolen a piece of my heart. But Krabi felt different even before I arrived. The moment the plane descended and I caught my first glimpse of those […]

The first thing I thought when someone mentioned Australia was kangaroo. Not the Opera House, not the beach, not even the coffee. Kangaroo. But when I actually arrived, I had no idea where to find one. I had this vague assumption that Australia would just have kangaroos somewhere – on the roadside, in a field, […]